How To Make Concrete Coffee Table At Home

Table of Contents

Hey guys what’s going on I’m Shoaib Iqbal and in this post I’m gonna show you how I built this modern concrete coffee table check it out.

concrete table


So this project was a bit of a learning curve I wanted to practice some concrete work for a client job coming up. so I started out with making concrete coffee tableconcrete coffee table

Concrete Coffee Table Making Steps:

  1. Standard pouring technique and you’ll see that changes down the line.This requires a melamine mold which is to be broke down and my first mistake was using Brad nails to assemble the form.I thought this would be a quicker way to do it but turned out that it just tears things to pieces and it was super incorrect and then my second mistake is i didn’t countersink any of the screws i used after the Brad nail.

  2. I wipe out the form and cut some wire mesh for reinforcement and then caulk all the corners and clean them up with a caulking tool.

  3. I then go ahead and move on to mix up some concrete here I’m using quikrete 5000 which has some rocks in it as you can see.

  4. I fill up the form and start pressing it into the corners until it’s about a half inch thick throughout the entire mold.

  5. I then add the wire mesh and finish filling the mold i screed it flat on the bottom and let it dry for about five days.

  6. Here I’m just vibrating out the bubbles the best that I can I used a recip saw, a hammer to get those out.So unfortunately as I’m working on the top I realize there’s a bow in the bottom of it and it’s not gonna sit flat on the frame that I made for it as well as there’s a lot of pitting and pock marks in the top that really came out when I put the wax on it.

  7. This is my first concrete project I’m gonna get back into another one because I do have leftover melamine.I’ll make another mold I’ll get one put together and we’ll finish this thing up and get this project out the door.

  8. let’s go so for round two I deconstruct the old mold as you can see here so I can use the bottom again and then I reattached some sides that I freshly cut.

  9. I countersink and screw these one in properly this time with no Brad nails.

  10. I then use some paste wax which is a trick I learned from my cat mud dust real maker and then I apply the caulk.The wax helps release the caulk after I use this cool little fondant cool.

  11. I then mix up some Portland cement and some fine sand this time in order to use a copper sprayer.

  12. I have this Harbor Freight texture spray gun that hooks up to my airline and I spray the form until it’s about a quarter inch thick throughout the entire form.

  13. Once the form is filled I add some shredded fiberglass to the cement mix and some acrylic hardener.I mix that up until it’s about the consistency of a what you can make a patty i pack that into the mold over the quarter inch until the molds completely full.You want it to be the consistency in which you’re able to play with it. Here it was a little bit thin in this part but it ended up working out fine.

  14. I then continued to fill the mold and I scraped the bottom to his flat as i can get it I’ll cover the mold with some plastic or tarp and I let this one sit for two days.

  15. So this is great news this top looks much much better there’s not even anywhere close to as many voids.

  16. I’m gonna hit it with a slurry coat just because I’m I’m stupid and left some stuff on top of the face of the melon before I poured and I stuck my fingers through that coat on the on when I sprayed it so a little bit of a slurry coat should be able to get this thing nice and smooth and get done.

  17. I filled some of the holes left with a slurry coat which is just acrylic and Portland cement.I then sand off the rough parts of the slurry coat by hand first with some 80 grit on a block and then jump to my random orbit sander with 150 grit and work all the way up to 400.

  18. So after the top is prepped I move on to making the base I’m just using a one-inch square tubing for this and super simple design and construction. I cut all the parts for the base first and then I chamfer all of the corners that will be used in the joints for the welds you want the welds to penetrate somewhere so that’s why you chamfer the corners

  19. I then go ahead on my welding table and lay out what will be the top of the frame because the welding table is flat I’m able to reference that and get all of my angles nice and square.

  20. I first tack in all of the legs which you’ll see here in a second and then I add all of the cross members and stretchers that will make the frame look like a complete box make sure that you tack weld all of the frame together first that way.If it’s out of square or there’s any issues it’s much easier to fix here you see I’m checking for square and then I’ll go in and finish all the welds.

  21. All of the exposed welds on the outside will get ground down the flush and then I use an inside corner abrasive lap disk pad in order to get the inside welds nice and pretty I’ll take a scotch brite pad as you saw and scuff the surface and then wipe it down with acetone and spray it with a self etching primer.

  22. After the primer goes on I finish it up with a coat of matte black enamel.

  23. Once the base is dry i go ahead and add a two coats of tills concrete sealer to the bottom of the table and the top the top I take my time and use nice long strokes so there’s no streaking at the top once it’s finished.

  24. After that this table’s wrapped off camera after I got this in its final shape. I do attach the top with some construction adhesive so it doesn’t move when it’s in place.

Thank you guys so much for checking concrete coffee table construction.This build as you saw I had a big screw-up in the middle of it but I ended up being able to fix it with a little bit of research. I’m gonna send a thank you out there to my buddy  John for helping me out with that on the GFR.concrete table

See stuff is a complex world of creation and i was glad to be able to pick the brain of a pro speaking of pros. I want to thank my sponsor for this build Timberland Pro. Timberland pro is my go-to for work where especially with boots. I’ve been wearing them for years absolutely love them if you want to see more of what I wear from Timberland Pro check out my posts below and when you support my sponsors you support me and i put more content out for you guys so you thank you guys one more time for tuning in go punch your next project in the face and I’ll see you in the next blog post.